PICA-PAU
PICA PAU is the latest project by Plateform in Príncipe Real, our favorite part zof downtown Lisbon, with a focus on crafting excellent products using accomplished techniques and a respect for tradition. The chef had long held a dream of opening a restaurant like this, which fortunately aligned with Rui Sanches' goal of promoting family recipes from across the country.
However, the challenge lies in the very simplicity of the idea. Working with such familiar dishes - likely to be compared to the near sacrosanct meals produced by a mother or grandmother - raises the bar to a completely new level. Everyone has something to say about Pastéis de Bacalhau (Cod Cakes), Octopus Salad, or Chocolate Mousse. I know that from my father’s family. The 2 daughters and 7 brothers (!) are always fighting about who makes the best this and that.
Achieving success in the restaurant's cuisine lies in the combination of excellent quality produce, refined techniques, and an ability to accept imperfections. As the concept for the restaurant started to come together, the chef and their team delved into the rich culinary heritage of Portugal, studying renowned food writers such as Maria de Lourdes Modesto and Virgílio Gomes. They sought to replicate some of the techniques found in these "bibles" of traditional cooking.
Polvo à Lagareiro
Space
Upon entering the nineteenth-century building at number 27, Rua da Escola Politécnica, guests are greeted by a bar, typical of most restaurants and snack bars. Bottles of various spirits jostle for space alongside chorizos and white sausage. Beyond the bar lies an open "tunnel," separated from the kitchen only by a counter. Walking along this passage offers guests the opportunity to observe the gastronomic action and all the preparations in real-time.
The rest of the ground floor is occupied by a dining room and a marble mosaic-tiled terrace with traditional Alentejo bulrush benches seating up to 60 people. The tables are made from recycled dark wood, and the walls inside are adorned with metal shelves filled with bottles of Portuguese wine and black slates with the dish or wine of the day written in white chalk.
The covered terrace, adorned with greenery and cushioned sofas, is used throughout the year and flows seamlessly from the main dining room. We ate outside in the middle of February and it was very nice (without jackets). It also offers more space if you have a stroller.
The interior design of the space blends contemporary and traditional elements to create an atmosphere that is both comfortable and elegant, with a relaxed vibe. Traditional Alentejo clay pottery dishes beautifully complement the handmade Viúva Lamego tiles on the walls and hanging lamps made of enamelled sheet metal.
About the Chef
The story goes that Luís Gaspar has always wanted to get stuck into the pots and pans. As a young boy, he used to love spending hours at the stove with his mother. So, it was no surprise when, in 1991, he decided to enrol in the Professional School in his hometown of Leiria, at the age of 15. After finishing his course, he got his first job working alongside the prestigious French Chef Aimé Barroyer at the Pestana Palace Hotel. He was to stay there for two years. He then moved on to the Grande Villa Itália hotel, where he spent another three years. Along the way he met Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa at a gastronomic event. He ended up joining Henrique at Cais da Pedra and moved with him when he opened his eponymous eatery in Mercado da Ribeira. He was 24 when he was invited to take on the lead role in the Sala de Corte kitchen. For the Portuguese gastronomic community, his appointment and subsequent performance have put him firmly in the limelight. Touted as a promising talent to watch, he garnered a number of medals at the Culinary Olympics, as a member of both the Junior and Senior Olympic Culinary Teams. In 2017, he won the Chef of the Year Award, one of Portugal’s most important competitions for kitchen professionals. He was also named “Best Promising Chef of Portugal” at the Open Restaurant Festival, at which he represented his home country. He acts as a consultant to various Plateform restaurants, helping to develop concepts and products for the group’s various projects.
We went for the Polvo à Lagareiro (octopus) and Bitoque à Pica Pau. As a starter we had the Couvert with olives, butter and Flatbread from Mafra (the best bread EVER). As we were already very full, we skipped dessert but in retrospect I wish I had tried the Farófias Leite Creme as I usually love them.
Farófias Leite Creme
More about Pica Pau: www.restaurantepicapau.pt
Pictures: Nuno Correia